Olek Bondonio

Piedmont
Italy
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Olek Bondonio

Piedmont
Italy
Italy
PRODUCER
Olek Bondonio
ESTABLISHED
2005
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic, Certified Organic
REGION
Piedmont
Italy
CITY / VILLAGE
CLIMATE
Continental
ELEVATION
SIZE

About

It’s an understatement to say Bondonio is different than much of the scene in the Piedmont, especially in Barbaresco—no tasting room, no modern-art metal sculptures at the gates, no name engraved in bronze. Instead, he lives and works at his family’s 200 year-old farmhouse called ‘La Berchialla,’ where old custom is still visible: his botti for aging live in the bottom floor where cattle were kept; the family lived on the floor above. There is pedigree here, however: Bondonio’s wines hail from three lauded vineyards, some of which have been in his family those same 200 years. (One of Olek’s ancestors of the farm La Berchialla, General Guglielmo Como, was a key founder of ‘Barbaresco’s Corporate Wine Cellar,’ today known as ‘Produttori del Barbaresco.’)

Despite Bondonio’s ancestry and highly-regarded vines—including his holding of Roncagliette, just down his driveway, immediately abutting Gaja’s famous Sorì Tildin—Olek only began his foray into wine with encouragement from his Polish mother, who told him if he was interested in making wine off the family vineyards, he should do it. Bondonio began first to tend the family vines, getting to know the character of each vineyard for a few years, then undertook his first small vintage in 2005.

After 15 years, Bondonio’s practices are clear: a committed believer in no chemical inputs in the vines, with some biodynamic practices applied, very minimal intervention in the cellar. He’s interested in the vineyards themselves, working them personally, as well as having acquired further pieces of special sites like Starderi and Altavilla—some of those from old folks in nearby villages who normally wouldn’t open the door if a stranger came knocking about their vineyard holdings.

Products

Barbaresco Starderi

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Nebbiolo
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Organic, Practicing Biodynamic. 100% Nebbiolo from Starderi, from the northernmost commune of Neive: a small parcel of 40 year-old vines Olek is lucky enough to rent from an older couple who can no longer tend its steep slopes. Fermented in concrete with two months on the skins (submerged cap), then pressed off and moved to large botti for longer élevage (usually two years). Unfined, unfiltered, with moderate amounts of SO2 (10-20ppm max) added just before bottling. The soils in Starderi are a little softer, more clay, less intense marl; the site is also less exposed than elsewhere in the region. As a result this is a wine that’s expressive in its youth, with refreshing acidity and gentler tannins. Don’t let its aromatic openness fool you, though: it has a long life ahead.

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Barbaresco Roncagliette

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Nebbiolo
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Organic, Practicing Biodynamic. 100% Nebbiolo from Roncagliette: 50 year-old vines, planted on very heavy clay on top of blue marl, 350m elevation. Fermented in concrete with two months on the skins (submerged cap), then pressed off and moved to large botti for longer élevage (usually two years). Unfined, unfiltered, with moderate amounts of SO2 (10-20ppm max) added just before bottling. This is the powerhouse wine of the domaine, with a palate saturated in black fruit and a highly mineral core, but it never loses its sense of freshness or drinkability.

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Barbera d'Alba

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Barbera
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Organic, some biodynamic practices. 100% Barbera from 40-45 year-old vines in the Altavilla vineyard, a prized vineyard in which many of the other icons in the region have Nebbiolo holdings, high in the hills above town of Alba. Fermented in steel tanks with a month on the skins, very lightly pressed in a basket press, then completes malolactic fermentation in steel. Afterward, the wine is moved by gravity into 1600L botti for 8-10 months. Unfined, unfiltered, with moderate amounts of SO2 (10-20ppm max) added just before bottling. Barbera with none of the displeasure: elegant palate of blue and black fruit, herbs, and wet earth.

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Nebbiolo Langhe

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Nebbiolo
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Organic, some biodynamic practices. 100% Nebbiolo, sourced from younger vines in the Roncagliette and Starderi vineyards. Fermented in concrete tank with a few weeks on the skins, before being gently pressed in a basket press to smaller, neutral barrels. Remains in barriques for a 8-10 month élevage. Unfined, unfiltered, with moderate amounts of SO2 (10-20ppm max) added just before bottling. Top quality for the appellation: Langhe Nebbiolo can vary widely in terms of pedigree, and this is the real deal, actually delicious to drink.

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Pelaverga Rosso Giulietta Langhe

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Pelaverga
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Organic, Practicing Biodynamic. 100% Pelaverga Piccolo. Bondonio has the only plantation of Pelaverga Piccolo, considered the highest-quality iteration of this variety, outside of the commune of Verduno, whence it hails—and it happens to be planted in the Roncagliette vineyard, by his grandfather. (You can see the hill on which Castello di Verduno sits only a stone’s throw away from this Pelaverga parcel.) Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and concrete, depending on the vintage; a short élevage is done in neutral barrels afterward. Unfined, unfiltered, with moderate amounts of SO2 (10-20ppm max) added just before bottling. This is probably the most deeply red-fruited and mineral Pelaverga we know, not nearly as rustic and peppery as many others in the region. Gorgeous.

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Barbera d'Asti LITER

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Barbera
FARMING PRACTICE
Biodynamic Organic
DETAILS

Sustainable/Practicing Organic. 100% Barbera. This is the only négoce cuvée; Olek purchases Barbera from vineyards in the drier part of Asti, only contracting with several older-school growers who can farm these drier parcels with far lower chemical inputs compared to others. Some of the vineyards are sustainable, some organic. Fermented in concrete tanks, bottled unfined, with a very light filtering. The idea is to make a super fresh table wine meant for everyday drinking of which there actually is wine available, as the 6ha estate vineyards Bondonio farms always results in extremely limited quantities. Low tannic structure compared to most others in the region, great expression of fruit.

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