Étienne Calsac

Champagne
France
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Étienne Calsac

Champagne
France
France
PRODUCER
Etienne Calsac
ESTABLISHED
2010
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
REGION
Champagne
France
CITY / VILLAGE
CLIMATE
Continental
ELEVATION
SIZE

About

In 2010, at the age of 26, Étienne Calsac decided to take over his grandparents’ three hectares of vineyards scattered in and around Avize, which had previously been rented out to the grandes maisons, like many other small farming families throughout the region. For Calsac, stewardship of the terroir is the basis for great Champagne, so Étienne set out to ensure right away that all the vineyards are planted with grass cover crops, plowed, and transitioned to organic farming. (As of 2021, every parcel with which Étienne works is certified organic.)

Étienne himself had worked several vintages at major houses, particularly helping with press, before starting his own domaine, and he decided to maintain the same strict quality controls, in addition to a few personal touches inspired by friendship and dialogue with other young vignerons in the region. Each parcel at Calsac is vinified separately, with a percentage of wines aged in barrels. In addition to the perpetual reserve for his non-vintage cuvée ‘l’Echappée Belle,’ Calsac also keeps a separate reserve tank for the single-vineyard ‘Les Rocheforts.’

Calsac has an eye for experimentation and has released several limited cuvées over the years, including a yearly vintage Grand Cru from his grandparents’ exquisite, tiny garden vineyard in Avize called ‘Clos des Maladries’ as well as ‘Les Revenants,’ a blend of Pinot Blanc and Petit Meslier with a touch of Arbane from a vineyard that Étienne planted himself in the Côte de Sezanne. There’s another special single-vineyard these days, too, the Val d’Hermite, which is Étienne’s foray into a 100% Pinot Noir from the Aube, as unlikely a stretch as a Côtes des Blancs producer is ever likely to make into different terroir, plus the ephemeral ‘Comète’ series, a rare release each year of something new and creative.

Calsac’s quality and achievement in his winery have become very clear to us over the years at Coeur as he has refined both his farming, his winemaking, and his range of wines—each of these is a notable cuvée with clear thought behind it, from the more delicate entry-level Chardonnays to the powerful and moving single-vineyard wines. We’re very pleased to have been accompanying Étienne on his journey and are pleased to offer the small pieces of his production we receive only once or twice a year.

Products

Champagne 'Clos des Maladries' Grand Cru Avize

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Clos des Maladries is a Grand Cru, .16ha clos in Avize. The vines were planted in the early ’70s by Étienne's grandfather. The soil here is pure chalk of a prized type called belemnite, which is thought to impart greater minerality and acidity. The exposure is due south; the walls of the clos also retain heat, aiding in ripening. The vineyard is planted at a high density and plowed by horse. After harvesting with manual sorting in the vineyard, the grapes are pressed—as an homage to the old way of making Champagne, everything is included at press rather than just the ‘coeur de cuvée’ as is common in champagne. Fermentation occurs in old oak barrels. After fermentation the wines are kept on lees in those same vessels without racking for seven months, where it goes through malolactic. The wine stays on the lees for 48 months under cork before disgorging in June. Base vintage 2020. Dosage is 4 g/l (MCR). 1000 bottles produced. ‘Maladries’ is the name of a medieval hospital housing contagious patients; one was located on the vineyard site centuries ago.

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Champagne 1er Cru 'L'Echappee Belle' Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Chardonnay. The fruit for this cuvée is taken mainly from 1er cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, particularly the village of Grauves, which known for its cooler microclimate (70% of the base wine comes from these sites). The vineyards were planted by Etienne’s grandparents, who are both from Grauves. Beginning in 2011, Etienne has kept a perpetual reserve just for this cuvée, and 30% of the final blend is produced with that reserve. Direct press of the entire harvest with separation of the juice. Only the "cuvée" is kept for the vinification (no head or tail of the press). Base wine (currently 2021) aged on the lees for seven months, 25% of which is aged in neutral 500-600 liter barrels, before bottling. 30% reserve wine. Unfined, unfiltered. No dosage.

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Champagne Les Rocheforts Terroir de Bisseuil 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Base 2017 vintage. Sourced entirely from a single called Les Rocheforts, situated in the town of Bisseuil, a premier cru village in the Cote des Blancs. Vines average 30 years in age- the soil is chalk and the exposure is southeast. Only the coeur de cuvee juice is used. Primary fermentation in tank with malolactic fermentation in a combination of barrel (15% for 7 months) and tank. Dosage 4 g/L (MCR)

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Champagne Rosé de Craie

TYPE
Sparkling / Rosé
VARIETAL
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. Roughly 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir. This wine is built off the same base as ‘L’Échappée Belle,’ with chalky Chardonnay parcels pulled from a majority of Côtes des Blancs sites in the villages of Grauves, Avize, and Bisseuil. The Pinot Noir is sourced from a site in Vertus. It is technically a rosé d’assemblage, with Pinot Noir verjus added to the base wine of l’Échappée Belle before bottling. Aged anywhere from 18 – 24 months on lees at minimum in bottle. Dosage 4 g/l.

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Champagne 'Les Revenants' Extra Brut

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, Arbanne
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 50% Pinot Blanc, 45% Petit Meslier, 5% Arbane. ‘Les Revenants’ is a Champagne a l’ancienne—in 2010, Calsac planted .3ha of a family vineyard in the Côte de Sezanne to some of the forgotten Champagne varieties: Pinot Blanc for body, Petit Meslier for aromatics, and Arbanne for acidity. The vineyard, called ‘Les Fours,’ is in the town of Montgenost, south-facing, and sits on an alkaline clay-limestone topsoil with chalk beneath. All the grapes are picked together on the same day; they are also pressed together all at once. Everything is included at press rather than just the ‘coeur de cuvée’ as in his other wines. Vinified entirely in 600L barrels. This vintage is all 2021, was spontaneouly fermented all in 600L barrels on full lees, then transferred unfiltered into bottle. 36 months on lees, hand-disgorged in Jan 2024. Zero dosage. No more than 1000 bottles produced annually. ‘Les Revenants’ are those who return from being missing or gone a long time.

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Coteaux Champenois Photogramme

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Petit Meslier
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic: 100% Petit Meslier. Vineyard: Cote de Sézanne, Montgenost Parcel: Les Fours. Exposition: 0.75 acres on a south slope of sandy chalk soils Vinification: Indigenous yeasts. 7 months in oak barrel with full skin contact, meaning de-stemmed berries are added to the barrel by hand. Vinification: The de-stemmed berries naturally ferment directly in an old oak barrel and remain there for the 7-months of aging. All free run juice, there is no racking, no fining, no filtering before bottling. No So2 added.

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Champagne 'Projet Comete' Brut Nature

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Petit Meslier. The ‘Projet Comète’ series is a newer project from Étienne where the bottling is different each year. It’s a way for Étienne to explore new wines without disrupting the labels and vineyards well-settled in his lineup, as he still has lots of new ideas. Each year the cuvée is ephemeral, tiny in quantity, and therefore as lasting as only a ‘comète.’ Comète No. 4 is entirely from the 2020 harvest, Étienne’s very first 100% Petit Meslier, drawn from the same vineyard in the Côte de Sezanne which gives birth to ‘Les Revenants’ (his vineyard called ‘Les Fours’). The wine was vinified in oak unfined/unfiltered and unsulfured, then aged under cork while on lees for roughly 36 months. Disgorged December of 2023 with no dosage, but containing 5 g/L of RS. Only one 350L barrel was produced. In this wine one feels the distinctively savory, leafy, nearly Alsatian or Italian alpine nature of Petit Meslier – Étienne notes that the variety’s relationship to Savagnin is clear to him, especially after vinifying it solo for this cuvée.

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Champagne 'Val d'Hermite' Blanc de Noirs

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. This wine is sourced from a single parcel, from a hamlet of the same name in the region of Bligny in the Aube. The parcel’s topsoil is highly calcareous; the vineyard is exposed south. This bottling is all from vintage 2020, vinified entirely in oak barrels, and aged under cork while on lees for roughly 38 months. Disgorged Jan 2024 with no dosage. Étienne makes this wine as the one full, regular expression of Blanc de Noirs in his portfolio; for a vintner who is from the Côtes des Blancs and has focused on Chardonnay for most of his winery’s existence, it represents a real curiosity and reach into the other serious, chalk-and-calcaire-driven parts of Champagne. Herbal, savory, and a bit more powerful, it’s a very different wine from the lightness and you see in Calsac’s flagships, L’Échappée Belle and Les Rocheforts. Special stuff.

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