Domaine Rougeot
About
Domaine Rougeot was founded in the ’70s, in the Meursault village center, but Pierre-Henri is the eighth generation of Rougeots to be winemakers here. The family has 12.5 hectares total, 10.5 of which are in Meursault proper. Pierre-Henri’s story is interesting: he began work in his 20’s as an export manager for a cooperage, meaning he traveled all over France to sell barrels. On these travels, Rougeot became friendly with a number of natural winemakers in the Loire, Languedoc, and Beaujolais, and a few of their concerns convicted him over time: of these, minimizing the use of sulfur dioxide seemed tantamount. Pierre-Henri says, “I have discovered people with the true sense of what it is to be a winemaker—to give clearly the sensation that they have of their wines in barrel; this requires no chemical additions or interference.” Years of drinking natural wine persuaded Pierre- Henri that it was a vital pursuit; he claims these wines, “when well done, of course,” are always more complex, “with more personality than ever before.”
Galvanized by new possibilities for his family’s domaine, in 2010 Pierre-Henri took over the winemaking from his father. Père Rougeot still leads the work in the vineyards, however, where full transition to certified organic farming was completed in 2014, and biodynamic farming is next on the docket for the family to begin practicing. Pierre-Henri holds that his father is learning lessons from him, about low- intervention, older styles of wine—but the son must still learn a great deal about how to care for the land properly; these lessons from his father continue.
This kind of pragmatism is the leading force at Rougeot: vineyard care takes precedence; stable, high-quality wine comes next; then sulfur is considered—throughout eight or nine months of élevage, as all vinification has taken place entirely sans soufre, Pierre-Henri will taste each wine from barrel to see if any require a small application of SO2; oxidization and high amounts of volatile acidity aren’t tolerated. But whenever Pierre-Henri sees barrels and cuvées that seem excellent and stable, the preference is to bottle them with nothing added. The domaine has two labels, therefore; a more classical-looking label depicting the domaine indicates those wines with small amounts of SO2 added; a diagonal, flag-shaped label represents those wines made with none.
We are pleased and impressed with each of the wines in this lineup—and though Meursault obviously is a white wine village, Pierre-Henri’s Pinot Noirs are not to be missed; eschewing de-stemming, cold maceration, and factory yeasts, they taste like the red Burgundies that seem sometimes out of legend: rustic and transparent, with plenty of dark fruit to balance their structured, mineral spine. The Bourgogne Blancs also represent great value: each has the echo of the fancier Meursault terroirs; they present as classy without being too voluptuous. If you’ve given up on Burgundy because it all seems overwrought, overly expensive, nearly impossible to access good wines, check these out: expressive, actually-attainable beauties, from a forward-thinking winemaker breathing life into his family legacy.
Products
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Grandes Gouttes'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. The lieu-dit “Les Grandes Gouttes” sits at the southern edge of Meursault on border with Pugligny, just a few hundred meters below the Premier Cru vineyard Les Charmes. The vineyard is only a hectare size and the vines were planted between 1950 – 1980 on clay-limestone soils. Hand-harvested, direct pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, and cold settling for 2 days. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeasts begins in a concrete vat and then pumped into French oak barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation (5% new oak). Aging in oak barrels for 12 months.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Clos des 6 Ouvrées'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. "Clos des 6 Ouvrées" vineyard is located within the Domaine's walls, at the base of the hill of Meursault, and mere metres from the “Les Chevalières” climat. It is the ideal location to grow great quality Chardonnay and this Bourgogne is often called the “Petit Meursault” within the range. This Clos is only producing six to eight barrels a year. Hand-harvested, direct pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, and cold settling for 2 days. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeasts begins in a concrete vat and then pumped into French oak barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation (5% new oak). Aging in oak barrels for 18 months.
Monthelie 'Les Toisières'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. “Les Toisieres” is located exactly at the crossroads between Meursault and Monthelie. This west-facing vineyard produces wines with great tension and length. The vineyard used to be planted to Pinot Noir, and was replanted to Chardonnay by Pierre-Henri’s father in the early 1990s. The grapes are harvested by hand and sorted in the vineyard. When the grapes arrive at the winery, they are gently brought to the press. After a long and gentle press cycle, the must is pumped into a concrete tank to settle the sediment. Then, it goes directly to the barrels to undergo its alcoholic fermentation. “Les Toisieres” is vinified like a Meursault, with a long maturation in oak barrels for 18 months. However, there are no new oak barrels used, so that the wine can express its terroir as much as possible.
Saint Romain 'La Combe Bazin'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. ‘La Combe Bazin’ was planted in the 1920s and is the oldest vineyard at the domaine. The wines produced from this site are rich, layered, and should be known as one of the more striking white wines at the domaine, despite the ‘lesser ‘appellation.
Meursault 'Sous la Velle'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Sourced from over 55-year-old vines on a 2.5 hectare “Sous la Velle” climat. The vineyard is located at the foot of the Meursault hill, opposite the Chateau de Meursault. It means “Under the village”. In that part of Meursault, we find much richer soils and less limestone. Hand-harvesting, direct pneumatic pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, cold settling for 2 days, alcoholic fermentation with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation in barrels. A long maturation in oak barrels for 12 months (15% new). No batonnage.
Meursault 1er Cru 'Les Charmes'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Sourced from one of the emblematic vineyards of Meursault “Les Charmes,” this is a rich, powerful, aromatic wines. Marc Rougeot says “the higher the appellations rank, the less work you have to do at the winery”. He is right. “Les Charmes” climat grows on limestone and marl soil with ideal exposure to the morning sun (south, South-East). The vineyard is very well tendered and delivers beautiful grapes, caviar like in size, even in challenging weather conditions. “Les Charmes” is harvested by hand. The grapes are collected in small boxes for minimum handling and to avoid leaking juice that could oxidize and spoil the wine. The wine must undergo alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, 20% being new. After eighteen months of maturation without battonage, the wine is bottled.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 'Les Vercheres' Sans Soufre
Organic. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Gamay, from a single .2 ha parcel co-planted in the 50s and 80s, harvested together and co-fermented—all in the old style. The fruit is fermented 90% whole cluster, then moved into 600L neutral barrels for malolactic fermentation and élevage. One of the most vivid examples of Passetoutgrains we’ve seen in years, reminding us of a dead split between the perfume of Burgundy and the forest ruddiness of Beaujolais. Bottled with zero added SO2.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Rouge 'Les Vaux'
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Les Vaux is a single-vineyard plot of Bourgogne Pinot Noir located in Meursault close to the town center, consisting of 55+ year-old vines on clay-limestone. Like all of the Pinot at Domaine Rougeot, the fruit is vinified whole-cluster. Élevage takes place in neutral barrel on fine lees for 12 to 18 months. Earthen, structured, but with bright fruit, which also makes this one a standout in its youth. Max 18mg/l SO2 added, only before bottling.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Rouge 'Les Lameroses'
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Les Lameroses is a single-vineyard plot of Bourgogne Pinot Noir, located in northern Meursault, close to the border with Volnay. 45+ year-old vines on clay-limestone and ocean marl. Like all of the Pinot at Rougeot, the fruit is vinified whole-cluster. Élevage takes place in neutral barrel for 18 months. Savory, grippy, old-school red Burgundy. Max 18mg/l SO2 added, only before bottling.
Pommard 'Clos des Roses'
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. “The Clos des Roses” is located just below the village of Pommard, surrounded by stone walls on three sides and the small stream on the other. In this part of the village one can find ancient alluvial soils. This specific plot of Pommard can be sensitive to rot because of its proximity to the Pommard river. To avoid any risk, the team at Domaine Rougeot keep a very close eye on the winery sorting table, to make sure there are no rotten grapes. Rougeot owns 0.95 hectare of the Clos des Roses and the vines were planted in 1950's and 1980's. The grapes go directly to the vat with 90 % whole cluster, there is 1 or 2 cap punching during the vinification, and a rather long vatting period of three weeks for soft extraction occurs. During this period, the wine is pumped over the cap to get a stronger color and to extract the nice flavors that the berries offers. Then the wine is pumped into oak barrels, 25% new oak barrels, for its maturation of 18 months before bottling.
Volnay 1er Cru 'Les Santenots'
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Volnay “Les Santenots” is technically located in the village of Meursault, though vignerons discovered long ago that there is a larger demand for Volnay than Meursault Rouge, and wisely arranged to label reds from their northernmost vineyards as Volnay. Rougeot owns 1.5 hecares in Les Santenots, and the vines were planted in 1950's and 1980's on clay-limestone soils. Hand-harvested and the grapes are sorted in the vineyard on the vine. When the grapes arrive at the winery they all go on the sorting table to refine the sorting. The grapes are then brought gently into the stainless steel vat with 90% of whole cluster for alcoholic fermentation. There is 1 or 2 cap punching during the vatting period and the extraction of the tannins, colors and flavors happens within the three weeks of the vatting period and some pumping overs. After the wine is pumped into oak barrels (35% new oak barrels used), the wine undergoes an 18-month maturation before bottling.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 'Les Vérchères'
Organic. 60% Gamay and 40% Pinot Noir. Both grapes are sourced from “Les Vercheres” harvested at the same time and co-fermented to produce this Passetoutgrain. The vines range from 40 to 70-year-old (planted in 1950s and 1980s) and grown on clay-limestone soils. Hand-harvested and vinified 100& whole cluster with natural yeast and no sulfur during vinification or elevage. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with 15-18 days maceration and 1-2 pump overs per day. Aging in oak barrels for 12 months on the fine lees.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Rouge 'Les Vaux' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Sourced from 60-year-old “les Vaux” vineyard grown on clay-limestone soils located in Meursault. Hand-harvested and vinified 100& whole cluster with natural yeast and no sulfur during vinification or elevage. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with 15-18 days maceration and 1-2 pump overs per day. Aging in oak barrels for 8-10 months on the fine lees.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Grandes Gouttes' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. The lieu-dit “Les Grandes Gouttes” sits at the southern edge of Meursault on border with Pugligny, just a few hundred meters below the Premier Cru vineyard Les Charmes. The vineyard is only a hectare size and the vines were planted between 1950 – 1980 on clay-limestone soils. Hand-harvested, direct pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, and cold settling for 2 days. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeasts begins in a concrete vat and then pumped into French oak barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation (5% new oak). Aging in oak barrels for 12 months. No sulfites added.
Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc 'La Monatine'
Organic. 100% Chardonnay from a two-hectare lieu-dit on clay-limestone, 55 years of age. Fruit is handpicked, direct pressed, and cold settled over two days. Fruit is handpicked, direct pressed, and spontaneously fermented in neutral barrels, with 11 to 18 months’ élevage in neutral wood following. The wine is racked into steel tanks for blending and rests for one month before bottling. Medium-plus body, with some warmth and broadness on the finish. Max 25mg/l SO2 added, only before bottling.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'La Monatine' San Soufre
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. This single-vineyard is called ‘En la Montagne,’ with vines of 55 years of age on average, on clay-limestone soils at the base of the village of Meursault. S/SE exposure, at 230msl. Hand-picked, whole-cluster on pneumatic press, cold settling for two days. Fermented in neutral barrel, eleven mos’ élevage in neutral 228L barrels. Unfined/unfiltered, no added SO2.
Meursault 'Sous la Velle' San Soufre
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. Sourced from over 55-year-old vines on a 2.5 hectare “Sous la Velle” climat. The vineyard is located at the foot of the Meursault hill, opposite the Chateau de Meursault. It means “Under the village”. In that part of Meursault, we find much richer soils and less limestone. Hand-harvesting, direct pneumatic pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, cold settling for 2 days, alcoholic fermentation with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation in barrels. A long maturation in oak barrels for 12 months (15% new). No batonnage.
Pommard 'Clos des Roses' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. “The Clos des Roses” is located just below the village of Pommard, surrounded by stone walls on three sides and the small stream on the other. In this part of the village one can find ancient alluvial soils. This specific plot of Pommard can be sensitive to rot because of its proximity to the Pommard river. To avoid any risk, the team at Domaine Rougeot keep a very close eye on the winery sorting table, to make sure there are no rotten grapes. Rougeot owns 0.95 hectare of the Clos des Roses and the vines were planted in 1950's and 1980's. The grapes go directly to the vat with 90 % whole cluster, there is 1 or 2 cap punching during the vinification, and a rather long vatting period of three weeks for soft extraction occurs. During this period, the wine is pumped over the cap to get a stronger color and to extract the nice flavors that the berries offers. Then the wine is pumped into oak barrels, 25% new oak barrels, for its maturation of 18 months before bottling.
Volnay 1er Cru 'Les Santenots' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. The Volnay premier cru Santenots is technically located in the village of Meursault, though vignerons discovered long ago that there’s more demand for Volnay than Meursault Rouge, and therefore arranged to label reds from their northernmost vineyards as Volnay. This is Rougeot's most structured red wine, with a steely tannic frame—it’s intended to age and will gracefully. .85ha vineyard, 30 to 50 year-old vines. Vinified whole-cluster. Élevage is 18 months, 2/3 of the juice in neutral barrels, 1/3 in new wood.
Bourgogne Aligote 'Les Plumes'
Organic. 100% Aligoté from a single-vineyard called ‘Les Plumes,’ planted in 1974, with S/SE exposure at 220msl. Hand-picked, whole-cluster on pneumatic press, cold settling for two days. Fermented in neutral barrel, eight mos’ élevage in half neutral 228L barrels and half concrete tanks.
Bourgogne Aligote 'Les Plumes' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Aligoté from a single-vineyard called ‘Les Plumes,’ planted in 1974, with S/SE exposure at 220msl. Hand-picked, whole-cluster on pneumatic press, cold settling for two days. Fermented in neutral barrel, eight mos’ élevage in half neutral 228L barrels and half concrete tanks. Unfined/unfiltered, no added SO2.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Rouge 'Les Lameroses' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Les Lameroses is a single-vineyard plot of Bourgogne Pinot Noir, located in northern Meursault, close to the border with Volnay. 45+ year-old vines on clay-limestone and ocean marl. Like all of the Pinot at Rougeot, the fruit is vinified whole-cluster. Élevage takes place in neutral barrel for 18 months. Savory, grippy, old-school red Burgundy.
Saint Romain 'La Combe Bazin' Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Chardonnay. “La Combe Bazin” is the oldest vineyard at the domaine, planted over 90 years ago (in 1920s). At 350 m altitude, this 90-year-old vine on a limestone slope gives, thanks to its small yields, a dense and balanced wine. Hand-harvesting, direct pneumatic pressing in whole bunches untrimmed, cold settling for 2 days, alcoholic fermentation with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation in barrels. A long maturation in oak barrels for 18 months (15% new).
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 'La Piquette'
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Gamay. Rougeot’s first time playing with a piquette; it may or may not be repeated in coming vintages – fresh, delicious, and playful, as the style ought to be.
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Clos de 6 Ouvrees' Sans Soufre
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Blanc 'Grandes Gouttes' L'Orange
Meursault 1er Cru 'Les Charmes' Sans Soufre
Bourgogne Cote d'Or Rouge Pinot Noir Sans Soufre
Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. Pierre-Henri decided blend some of both Lameroses and Vaux parcels, as quantities finally allowed him to do so. His aim was to make a lighter wine (in contrast to Lameroses in particular)
