Cruse Wine Co. / Ultramarine

California
USA
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Cruse Wine Co. / Ultramarine

California
USA
USA
PRODUCER
Michael Cruse
ESTABLISHED
2013 / 2008
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic, Sustainable
REGION
California
USA
CITY / VILLAGE
CLIMATE
Maritime
ELEVATION
SIZE

About

We asked Michael Cruse what he wanted people to know about him for this bio and this is what he texted back: “I genuinely want to make pretty, drinkable wines that represent California. I’m not dogmatic but I do think I’m a student of the wine industry…I’m decidedly not cool anymore but I like being helpful to those who are.” This is pretty typical for Michael, who brings an “I’m just happy to be included” energy to all interactions, an aw shucks charm and politeness that is frankly surprising in any winemaker, and downright bizarre for the much lauded winemaker behind Ultramarine and Cruse wine co. Ask anyone making sparkling wine in the world what American they are most interested in, and Michael is invariably the top of that list, but he’d much rather ask you about how you’re doing.

It’s not that Cruse is uninterested in his work – we are aware of few winemakers with as much introspection, technical know-how and willingness to experiment as he is. If you press him, you’ll realize that everything in his wines is deliberate and thought out. In his hands, wine feels like a science or sculpture or creating a language for an HBO series – a project of foresight, tight control and a clear vision. Encoded in the DNA of everything he makes are etchings and conversations with a murder’s row of GOAT champagne makers; Michelle Noel Ledru chief among them but with clear through lines of Prevost and Savart, the latter of whom “always tells me what’s wrong with my wines and I love him for that.” We’d like to see how much Savart can bench press.

The two labels Michael makes share the same hyperfocus and relentless precision, but differ greatly in what, exactly, he’s trying to say with each. Ultramarine, his first and the more famous label, is an alternative history – what if the last, say 500 years of obsession and endless specialization that define the côte des blancs occurred instead somewhere on the Sonoma coast? Ultramarine is a grower champagne by any other name – a tightwire rope of a wine vibrating with unbelievable poise and tension, wearing its Gallic influences on its sleeve while gracefully stunting on the canon. The wines do an almost preternatural dance of referencing the familiar while obliterating any comparison – perhaps the clearest analogue we know is how 50 Shades of Grey started out as Twilight fan fiction, where the only difference is the looming subtext is pushed into the fore. These are the wines, Michael told us, that he “needs to make.”

The Cruse wine co wines, in contrast, are the wines Michael wants to make, wines of curiosity and celebration of California terroir. Rather than transplanting Champagne into California, the wines are instead an attempt to ask how Champagne would be different if it were someplace that actually saw the sun or had progressed further on the scoville scale than Dijon mustard. Perhaps most apparent on the sparklers is the almost languid phenolic ripeness – the wines aren’t green, they aren’t a knife. Instead they are redolent with herbs and smooth and round like a river stone, the sort of rock that if you kept in your cheek on a long walk would refresh your thirst. When you allow them to go flat, you’re left with a complete still wine that feels like it’s missing nothing. Fittingly, along with the traditional sparklers and the euphoric pet nats, Michael always releases several still wines under the Cruse wine Co label which are good enough to suggest that he never needed the bubble life, but that instead, the bubble life needed him.

Products

Red Blend 'Monkey Jacket' North Coast

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Valdiguié, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Saint Laurent
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 22% Mixed Red Blends, 19% Carignan, 14% Valdiguié, 12% Petite Sirah, 12% Syrah, 11% Pinot Noir, and 10% Tannat. AVA Breakdown: 56% Mendocino County, 26% Sonoma Coast, 14% Napa Valley, 4% Sierra Foothills. Approximately 50% of the blend was fermented whole cluster and all grapes were fermented in concrete. Aging was done in a mix of 50% concrete tanks and 50% used barrels. There were no additives used except for sulfur and the wine was bottled without fining or filtering.

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Sparkling White Zinfandel Eaglepoint Ranch Vyd Mendocino

TYPE
Sparkling / Rosé
VARIETAL
Zinfandel
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. A certified organic vineyard at around 2000 feet elevation above the town of Ukiah. This elevation concentrates flavors and protects the vines from the relatively brutal heat of the valley floor. The vines are approximately 40 years old; their age, elevation, and farming practices produce naturally concentrated and low yielding fruit. In order to make this subtle rosé, about 50% of the fruit was foot tread before loading into the press. The grapes were pressed with a champagne cycle and just the cuvée fraction was used. The base wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and bottled to finish its fermentation under pressure. After a little over 6 months, the wine was riddled and disgorged with no dosage.

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Sparkling Rose St. Laurent Ricci Vyd Carneros

TYPE
Sparkling / Rosé
VARIETAL
Saint Laurent
FARMING PRACTICE
Sustainable
DETAILS

Sustainable. This Austrian variety has been grown by Dale Ricci, a longtime family friend, for about 25 years. Ricci vineyards is located on the Sonoma half of Carneros and only a few miles from the San Pablo Bay. It’s typical Carneros soil, Haire clay loam, with the cool fog and winds that define the region. The fruit was hand harvested, destemmed, and macerated for a few hours prior to a gentle sparkling press cycle. After racking to a small stainless steel tank, it was allowed to ferment spontaneously and then bottled while still slightly sweet. The fermentation continued to dryness in the bottle. The wine was then riddled and disgorged following a 6 month tirage storage. It is a rosé and bottled without additions of any kind.

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Demo Series Traditional Method Valdigue Sparkling Rose Napa

TYPE
Sparkling / Rosé
VARIETAL
Valdigue
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. Valdiguié (Napa Gamay) from Terry Wilson’s Rancho Chimiles vineyard in Wooden Valley, Napa Valley AVA. A cooler region in south Napa, nestled against the Vacas mountains. Persistent mid-morning fog prevents extreme temperatures. Vines are 40+ years old. There is no tillage in the vineyard with a permanent cover crop on silt loam soils. We often make the Valdiguié from Rancho Chimiles as a pét-nat, but conditions in 2019 allowed us to experiment. We wanted to know if we would gain more varietal character and site impact from a traditional method sparkler. This is a saignée rosé that used both the cuvée and a small portion of taille. After nearly 30 months en tirage, this wine was disgorged with a dosage of 6 g/L. 180 cs produced.

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Demo Series 'Reserve Cask' Sparkling Wine

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. This wine is from the same vineyards as is used in Cruse Tradition. The primary vineyards are Keefer Ranch, Alder Springs, Linda Vista, and Rorick Vineyard. Inspired by some of the great grower producers in Champagne, this wine is a separate bottling of the perpetual cuvée reserve wine we use in Tradition, aged an additional year in a 2000L new Stockinger cask - 24+ months élevage, then it spent 24 additional months in bottle before it was riddled and disgorged without dosage of any kind. 120 cs produced

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'Cruse Tradition' Rose Sparkling Wine

TYPE
Sparkling / Rosé
VARIETAL
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Robust, strikingly fruited, and still maintaining poise and balance, Michael Cruse’s traditional-method rosé is likely one of California’s greatest sparkling bottles produced. This bottling is from the ’19 base vintage, with Pinot Noir as 2/3 of the blend and Chardonnay the latter third. Three different source vineyards were fermented separately in barrels with spontaneous ferment and no SO2; the wines were blended and then aged on lees in bottle two years before disgorging. Somewhere between the pure berry sunshine of California and the ruddy depth of the Montagne de Reims.

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'Cruse Tradition' Sparkling Wine

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. Base 18 bottling: This wine is from the 2018 base vintage with 6.5% perpetual cuvée added. The blend is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot noir. The primary vineyards are Keefer Ranch, Alder Springs, Linda Vista, and Rorick Vineyard. The grapes were pressed using a traditional Champagne cycle and press cut. The wine proceeded through a native primary and malolactic fermentation in barrel, wooden tanks, and about 20% stainless steel fermentation. No sulfur was used in the élevage. The wine was racked once and tirage bottled without fining or filtering. After approximately 28 months in bottle, the wine was riddled and disgorged à la volée with zero dosage.

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Sparkling Valdigue 'Ranchos Chimiles' Napa

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Valdigue
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. Valdiguié (Napa Gamay) from Terry Wilson’s Rancho Chimiles vineyard in Wooden Valley, Napa Valley AVA. A cooler region in south Napa, nestled against the Vacas mountains. Persistent mid-morning fog prevents extreme temperatures. Vines are 40+ years old. There is no tillage in the vineyard with a permanent cover crop on silt loam soils. We often make the Valdiguié from Rancho Chimiles as a pét-nat, but conditions in 2019 allowed us to experiment. We wanted to know if we would gain more varietal character and site impact from a traditional method sparkler. This is a saignée rosé that used both the cuvée and a small portion of taille. After nearly 30 months en tirage, this wine was disgorged with no dosage.

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Demo Series 'Blanc de Noirs' Alder Spring Vyd

TYPE
Sparkling / White
VARIETAL
Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. 100% Pinot Noir. The grapes are sourced from Alder Springs, a high elevation site in the Northern part of Mendocino county. The vines are a mix of suitcase clones from Burgundy and a small amount of Dijon clones. In 2020, the grapes were picked in the late August. Part of the demo series, this wine plays with the line between oxidative and reductive and uses different techniques to explore terroir. Fruit is pressed whole cluster using a traditional Champagne cycle. However, only the coeur de cuvée is used. The wine is fermented in puncheon and topped when finished. The barrels are then left untouched without the addition of SO2 or topping for nearly a year of élevage. The wine is tirage bottled and left on lees for over 24 months. It is then disgorged and bottled without dosage of any kind. This oxidative style is meant to bring out the minerality of the site. The resultant wine has a nose of waxy lanolin, jasmine tea, and white flowers with a hint of buttered toast and cinnamon. On the palate, it is richly textured and highly mineral with a long finish of salt and leather with only the smallest amount of berry fruit to finish. 140 cs produced

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Valdigue 'Rancho Chimiles' Napa

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Valdigue
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

Organic. Valdiguié (Napa Gamay) from Terry Wilson’s Rancho Chimiles vineyard in Wooden Valley, Napa Valley AVA. A cooler region in south Napa, nestled against the Vacas mountains. Vines are 40+ years old. No tillage in the vineyard with a permanent cover crop on silt loam soils. The very late 2023 vintage had us picking this wine in early October. Fruit was destemmed into an open concrete tank. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with manual punchdowns and light pumpovers. After 10 days on skins, the wine was lightly pressed and moved to older 500L puncheons and barrels. Malolactic occurred naturally with the wine receiving a light sulfur addition immediately before bottling. 300cs produced

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Chardonnay 'Rorick Vineyard' Sierra Foothills

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay
FARMING PRACTICE
Organic
DETAILS

This wine comes from a unique site high in the Sierra Foothills just outside of the town of Murphys. The own-rooted vines were planted in the late sixties in schist soils over a limestone bedrock. The vine age, elevation, and rocky soils create incredibly low yielding vines with the tiniest of clusters. The grapes were hand harvested and gently pressed using a long Champagne press cycle. Juice was transferred to neutral barrels and fermentation occurred spontaneously. Long slow barrel fermentations with no added sulfur. Bottled after 10 months in barrel with approximately 30 ppm total sulfur added.

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