About
Brunia is from the Sander family farm, one of the few Black-Owned winegrowers in South Africa. The farm is nestled on the slopes of Koue Berg Mountain ranges between the towns of Stanford and Napier within the Sondagskloof region, one of the coldest growing regions in South Africa. Currently, there are 17ha planted to vineyard and farmed biodynamically alongside 6 ha of figs, 5 ha of seasonal vegetables, with much of the rest given to vast tracts of pristine fynbos (a local term for shrubland), which is home to a diversity of plant and animal species, such as the Brunia Laevis which lends its name to the wines.
Sondagskloof, the home of Brunia Wines, is defined as a cool climate winemaking region, much like the greater Cape South Coast Area. Generally, this is defined as having moderate temperatures within the growing season and higher than average rainfall compared to such regions as Swartland and Stellenbosch. Additionally the region has a maritime influence due to the close proximity to the ocean. Although as New Yorkers, there is a tendency to assume South Africa is a hot monolith, this simply isn't true for Sondagskloof. We like to think about it as an Southern Hemisphere coastal Mendocino.
The vineyards are situated on mountain slopes, some 300m above sea level and 18km from the ocean. This results in a longer than average growing season, allowing the grapes to reach true maturity, whilst also retaining acid and freshness in the wines. This in turn gives the wines an elegance in youth but also the ability to age.
The farm is planted to cultivars that are best suited to this environment, namely Sauvignon Blanc (11Ha), Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Semillon and Syrah (approx. 1.5Ha). The Sauvignon Blanc grapes are the oldest grapes on the farm, but the Pinot and Chardonnay are beginning to show real potential. The soil types are quite varied on the farm, with decomposed granite and quartz/sandstone most widely found. In addition, the farm has several bands of limestone which, of course, are well suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Sustainability is quite important for the estate, and all the vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically. In addition, the farm employs a number of holistic practices such as cover cropping and composting to develop soil health. In general, the winery strives for a closed ecosystem, utilizing grazing cows in the winter months and grass maintenance and making mulch for under the rows and many treatments from flowers from the fynbos nearby. Systemics are eschewed in favor of herbal sprays and treatments – one particular delicious sounding spray is the chili-garlic spray that both repels deer and kills fungi.
Wade’s interest in biodynamics comes both form his respect for the local environment and his time working with Thierry Germaine of Domaine De Roche Neuves in the Loire. While abroad, he also worked harvest at Domaine de la Tournelle where he “ was inspired by the old fashioned vigneron culture still prevalent in Jura” – a rarity in South Africa where there is generally a steep division between winemakers and grapegrowers. After returning home in 2015, Wade spent 6 years at Mullineaux, eventually becoming the assistant winemaker. This time was critical in exposing him to natural winemaking in his home country and demonstrating what is possible for local terroirs.
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