Arndorfer

Kamptal
Austria
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Arndorfer

Kamptal
Austria
Austria
PRODUCER
Martin and Anna Arndorfer
ESTABLISHED
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
REGION
Kamptal
Austria
CITY / VILLAGE
CLIMATE
Continental
ELEVATION
SIZE

About

Martin and Anna Arndorfer are open-minded, curious, and committed to nature: these qualities have established them as some of the most sensitive and forward-thinking of winemakers in northern Austria. Both Martin and Anna come from a long line of vignerons (Anna is from the Steininger family), and their travels before taking over Martin’s family winery were formative, introducing them to progressive ideas on farming and vinification. Their personal experiences and family backgrounds, paired with their strong and creative personalities, caused the duo to break sharply with Kamptal tradition when they returned home to forge their own path. Now, in a short span of years, Arndorfer is one of the brightest stars in the natural wine world and a reference point for the new generation of Austrian winemakers.

The winery’s ethos comes from the belief that profound wine must be a pleasure to drink and a pleasure to make, and it shows in the wines. You can tell they’re having fun, given the diversity of their offerings, the constant exploration and refining of their expressions of different sites and varieties. They aim to carry “the message from the vineyard” in its fullest form, and their path is minimalism in the cellar. Specifically, this means no sulfur added at crushing, no fining of the must, no adding yeast or even a ‘pied de cuve,’ no stopping malo, no cold stabilization, the very gentlest (if any) filtering, and no additions beyond small levels of sulfur at bottling. Especially in Austria, which is still relatively conservative in winemaking overall, a lot of producers consider this very risky, but Martin & Anna aren’t concerned–they are confident their wines develop their own microbial stability through a lack of manipulation.

All the wines come from estate vineyards in the Kamptal, however, the Arndorfers have long since stopped caring if the wines are deemed “typical” enough to carry the appellation. The Kamptal is a cool climate region, named after the Kamp river, which flows through the area before emptying into the Danube. Very high diurnal shifts create thick skins in fruit here, which leading to powerful aromas and strong acidity. Microclimates, however, change considerably from hillside to hillside, vineyard to vineyard; altitudes range from 200 to nearly 500m. Small valleys between the hills work like channels, where cold winds from the northern regions chill the vineyards during the night. The Arndorfer winery and vineyards are located in and around the village of Strass im Strassertale–an area with a special microclimate, the first south-facing slopes near the Danube flats. This whole area is defined by the unique combination of the very old mother rock of the Bohemian Massif and the particular, continental influence of the Pannonian climate.



As Anna and Martin eloquently put it, “Because of our experience that nature is the strongest force, we love to work with her. Because of the knowledge that soil is the most intelligent thing we deal with, we’ve decided to trust him. Because of our beliefs that plants nourish our soils, we let them grow. With these ideas and confidence, we don’t interact in the cellar, which lets our wines transport the natural taste of the grape. These decisions we make by ourselves, and we let our personalities speak in our wines. We think that winemakers are artisans, or even artists. Their work requires creativity, sensitivity and an enormous amount of personality. Everything you would attribute to an artist… We have made it our task to produce wines that unite origin and passion, wines that arouse curiosity in the wine world across the globe.”

The Arndorfers’ philosophy gets them into a bit of trouble with the establishment in Austria, but they’re so gracious and non-confrontational that it hasn’t been a huge setback; there are no big fights with the authorities about what goes on the label, and so on. They’ve long ago accepted that the Arndorfer style may not be adopted by the mainstream in the near future (or ever), and if that means they can’t put the appellation on the label in certain cases, so be it. It is much more important to them to remain “free, creative, and independent” and to follow their ideas. Martin says, “For economics, it seems crazy and stupid. But so far the world has been big enough to find people interested in other styles.”

Products

Gruner Veltliner Strasser Weinberge

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Gruner Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 100% Gruner Veltliner. Sourced from 4 different vineyards. Strasser Gaisberg on loess soil with primary rock subsoil, Strasser Wechselberg on heavy dark clay soil with high amount of chalk, Strasser Hasel on deep loess soil, and Strasser Strangl on deep loess soil. They are all south facing terraces with altitudes between 214-330 meters planted between 1959 and 2000. Whole punch pressing, no maceration before pressing. Fermented with native yeast and aged for 11 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (20 mg/lt.) - just before bottling no fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strass has a very special microclimate because it has the first south faced slopes near the flat of the Danube.

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Riesling Strasser Weinberge

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Riesling
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 100% Riesling. Sourced from 3 vineyards. Kammerner Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), Zöbinger Gaisberg on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), and Strasser Wechselberg Spiegel on primary rock (granite). Vineyards are at altitudes between 230-360 meters planted between 1986 and 2010. Whole punch pressing, maceration up to 12 hours on skins before pressing. Fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months mainly in large neutral barrels and partly in stainless steel barrels (20%). Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (max 20 mg/l)- just before bottling. No fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strass has a very special microclimate because it has the first south faced slopes near the flat of the Danube. It‘s a unique combination of the very old mother rock of the Bohemian Massive and the particular influence of the Pannonian climate. Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for "village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin.

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Neuburger Strasser Weinberge

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Neuburger
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 100% Neuburger from 3 different vineyards. Strasser Gaisberg, planted 1982, on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis), at 328 m altitude, one terrace on Zöbinger Gaisberg, planted 1988 on primary rock (Gföhler Gneis) at 319 m (grapes used for the skin macerated portion), and Strasser Bleckenweg, planted 1960, on pure gravel at 281 m altitude. The grapes were macerated for 8 to 18 hours before pressing. Fermented with native yeast and aged for 10 months, partly in used French oak on full lees and partly in stainless steel barrels. Barrels are between 1200-1900 liters and between 2-30 years old. Naturally occurring malo. Sulfur added once (max 20 mg/l) - just before bottling no fining, smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Strass has a very special microclimate because it has the first south faced slopes near the flat of the Danube. It‘s a unique combination of the very old mother rock of the Bohemian Massive and the particular influence of the Pannonian climate. Strasser Weinberge is a protected name for "village wines“ which show you all characteristics of the variety and the village. Grapes are selected from the best vineyard sides in the village and express the diversity and complexity of the origin. Martin describes Neuburger as elegant but expressive, with earthy and nutty aromas, long and persistent palate and in their case very salty due to primary rock and zero botrytis (as a grape it's very vulnerable to botrytis owing to its tight clusters). Plantings of the grape have decreased significantly in the past 20 years in Austria due to the challenges of producing great wines (it's easier for most growers to just plant some Gruner and call it a day) but Martin seems to be attracted to championing these "forgotten" grapes that play an important part in the tapestry and diversity of Austrian wines. It's originally from the Wachau and genetic testing has shown it to be a crossing of Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner.

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Anina Verde (skin-ferment)

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Gruner Veltliner, Riesling
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Grüner Veltliner fermented on Riesling skins for ten days to gain more fruit expression and complexity. (To underline the labor-intensive quality of the way this wine is made: after the Riesling grapes are pressed whole-cluster, the Arndorfers take the pressed bunches out and separate the skins from the stems by hand.) Aged for six months in 2/3 stainless steel and 1/3 used French oak barrels, on full lees. 8 mg/l SO2 added before bottling. Unfined, unfiltered, and handled by gravity. One of three newer, experimental natural wines named after Martin’s three daughters, a way for him to continue pushing the limits of his winemaking.

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Rosa Marie (skin-ferment)

TYPE
Still / Rosé
VARIETAL
Zweigelt, Gruner Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Zweigelt fermented on Grüner Veltliner skins & mash. Zweigelt is macerated one day before pressing; after fermentation starts, GV skins/mash are added in. Fermentation happens in stainless steel. Ages for six months on full lees in a mix of stainless steel and used French oak. The wine is handled entirely by gravity only. Unfined/unfiltered, 10mg/l SO2 added just before bottling. One of three newer, experimental natural wines named after Martin’s three daughters, a way for him to continue pushing the limits of his winemaking.

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Gemischter Satz 'Terrassen 1958' (field blend)

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Neuburger, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Riesling (20%), Grüner Veltliner (20%), and Neuberger (60%), taken from a single-parcel, old-vines field blend. The parcel is old terraces planted in 1958, at 230-240m elevation, on loess soils within the Wechselberg vineyard site. Martin bought this traditionally co-planted parcel from an old man in his village of Strass in 2005 (much to the disapproval of older folks in the area). The plot was never re-worked or widened for tractors, so it is still worked by hand. The fruit sees 6 hours of maceration before pressing, then is fermented and aged in neutral French barriques and stainless steel barrels for ten months on full lees. Unfined/unfiltered, 14 mg/l SO2 added just before bottling. One of the Arndorfers' most complex and accomplished wines, a piece of Kamptal heritage.

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Roter Veltliner 'Terrassen 1979'

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Roter Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 100% Roter Veltliner. Sourced from a vineyard Zöbinger Gaisberg - south-facing terraced vineyards planted in 1979 on pure primary rock (Gföhler Gneis) altitude between 317 - 323m. Maceration up to 12 hours on skins before pressing. Fermentation with native yeasts aged for 10 months on the lees 44 % in 228 liter used French oak (4-8 years old), 56 % in 75 gallon stainless steel barrels with zero battonage or racking. Naturally occurring malo. No fining, just smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Sulfur added once (max 20 mg/l)- just before bottling. Roter Veltiner (which bears little in common with Gruner) is a vigorous grape, late-ripening grape that requires poor soils to limit its yields. When it is planted in just the right spot, it can produce truly spectacular wines with surprising weight that age extremely well. And rarely does it get to inhabit such hallowed terroir as the upper altitudes of the famed Gaisberg vineyard (an erste lage site) where one will generally find just Riesling. It would be a bit like finding some Aligote in Perrieres or Dolcetto in Cannubi). Martin purchased this site, against the advice of his father, in 2010, specifically because of the old vine Roter and the chance to make a benchmark expression of the grape. Roter a labor of love that doesn't make a lot of financial sense, but in the hands of Martin & Anna one can see why it's worth pursuing.

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Gruner Veltliner 'die Leidenschaft'

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Gruner Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Vineyards: Strasser Wechselberg - planted 1959 - clay soil - 306 m altitude. Strasser Gaisberg - planted 1964 - loess soil - 226 m altitude. Strasser Hasel - loess soil - planted 1972 - altitude 276. Vinification: maceration up to 24 hours before pressing, whole bunch pressing, fermentation with native yeasts aged for 10 months on the lees in used French oak (2-3 years old), of 228 liters. Naturally occurring malo. No fining, just smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids). Sulfur added once (max of 20 mg/l) - just before bottling.

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Chardonnay Neuburger 'die Leidenschaft'

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay, Neuberger
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 50 % Chardonnay, 50 % Neuburger. Chardonnay is sourced from Strasser Offenberg (planted 1985) and Strasser Gaisberg (planted 1994). Soils are chalk and loess. 250-300 m altitude. Both grapes are picked on the same day and pressed together. Neuburger macerated for 8 hours on skins before pressing and Chardonnay added as whole bunch to the Neuburger mash and pressed immediately. Fermentation with native yeasts and aged for 10 months on the lees in French oak, of 228 liters (1-4 years old) with zero battonage or racking. Naturally occurring malo. No fining, just smart filtered once (a fine metal mesh to catch large solids), Sulfur (max of 20 mg/l) added once - just before bottling.

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Martha Rouge (skin-ferment)

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Zweigelt, Sauvignon Blanc
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Zweigelt fermented on Sauvignon Blanc skins & mash. Whole-bunch Zweigelt cofermented with crushed Sauvignon Blanc for about two weeks in stainless steel. It's pressed into a mix of used French oak and stainless steel, where it ages for six months. Unfined/unfiltered and handled by gravity only. 10mg/l SO2 just before bottling. One of three newer, experimental natural wines named after Martin’s three daughters, a way for him to continue pushing the limits of his winemaking.

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Vereinter Schatz Red

TYPE
Still / Red
VARIETAL
Zweigelt, Pinot Noir
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 80% Zweigelt, 20 % Pinot Noir. Zweigelt - planted between 2000 and 2008, on loam soils. Pinot Noir - planted 2008, on loam soils with gravel. Altitude: 240-280m. The fruit is cofermented in large wooden fermenters, 70% whole cluster, 10% whole berry, 20% crushed. Aged six months on full lees in wooden fermenter and a few neutral French barriques. Unfined/Unfiltered, with 10mg/l SO2 just before bottling. “Vereinter Schatz” is a play on words the Arndorfers use to skirt new wine laws which disallow them from calling this wine a Gemischter Satz. In German, it sounds like “Gemischter Satz,” but it roughly translates as “United Sweeties.”

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Muller-Thurgau 'Per Se'

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Muller-Thurgau
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. The very first vintage of this particular wine. Martin loves Müller-Thurgau made with skin contact, and this special example of the style comes from a single vineyard called Merschein. The vineyard is located in a tiny little side valley behind the Gaisberg and Heiligenstein, with vines planted in 1976—it has a similar soil profile to the famous Heiligenstein: lots of primary rock and loess. The vineyard is also relatively chilly, which results in a long, slow growing season for Müller-Thurgau. whole cluster skin fermented for 2 weeks. The free run and pressed juice are separated with a small part of the press being added back in at blending. Unfined and unfiltered, with a small amount of SO2 at bottling.

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Vereinter Schatz White

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Gruner Veltliner, Riesling
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 80% Grüner Veltliner, 20% Riesling. Taken from three vineyard sources: Hasel for the GV; Hoeller and Gaisberg for the Riesling. The fruit is harvested on the same day, with the Riesling seeing a few hours of skin contact. Fruit is then pressed together to coferment in large-format neutral oak, with a small part in stainless steel. Aged for six months in those same vessels. Unfined/unfiltered, with 10ppm SO2 added before bottling. “Vereinter Schatz” is a play on words the Arndorfers to skirt new wine laws which disallow them from calling this wine a Gemischter Satz. In German, it sounds like “Gemischter Satz”, but it roughly translates as “United Sweeties”. Always produced like a field blend in the cellar (cofermented).

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Gerne (skin-ferment)

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Sauvigon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. Another masterpiece from Martin and Anna - but if you’ve been paying attention this will come as no surprise! The vinification takes place in four parts: 24% Grüner Veltliner juice fermented with destemmed and crushed Sauvignon Blanc. 24% Grüner Veltliner juice fermented with destemmed and crushed Neuberger. 20% Grüner Veltliner juice fermented with whole clusters of Chardonnay. 32% macerated Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentations occur in neutral oak. The wines were rested in barrel on the full lees for one year, at which point they were blended and bottled unfined and unfiltered with a 10mg/L SO2 addition. Fans of the ’22 vintage might find this iteration more austere due to the exclusion of Roter Muskateller (Muscat Rouge à Petit Grains). However, the macerated Sauvignon Blanc gives beautiful herbal and citrus notes that allude to long macerations of this variety commonly found further south in Steiermark. The palate gives way to fine chalky tannins, and well integrated acidity. This is a wine that is quickly becoming a staple of the Arndorfer line (but only for us). Gerne is a way of saying thank you in German, commonly used in a service setting. This cuvée was born during the pandemic when many in the service industry were out of work. Portions of the proceeds were donated to charities geared towards helping people in the hospitality industry that were in need.

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'die Leidenschaft' Weisz

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Chardonnay, Neuburger, Riesling, Gruner Veltliner
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 25% Neuberger, 25% Chardonnay, 30% Grüner Veltliner, 20% Riesling. All of these grapes are taken from one of Martin's most important vineyard sites in the Kamptal, the Gaisberg, as a way of giving a snapshot of the terroir of the whole hillside. The Chardonnay and Neuberger are cofermented; Grüner and Riesling are vinified on their own; everything is fermented in neutral French oak barrels and aged on full lees for ten months, then blended together. Unfined, unfiltered, with 20mg/l SO2 added just before bottling. This wine was formerly three separate 'die Leidenschaft' bottlings; Martin has combined the wines to give the most nuanced picture of the site.

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Neuberger 'Herrengasse 4'

TYPE
Still / White
VARIETAL
Neuburger
FARMING PRACTICE
Certified Organic
DETAILS

Certified Organic. 100% Neuburger. This Neuburger is taken from three special vineyard sites: 40 year-old vines in the Strasser Gaisberg on gneiss, 35 year-old vines in the Zoebinger Gaisberg on gneiss, and 60 year-old vines in the Strasser Bleckenweg, on gravel. 30% of the fruit is fully skin-fermented; the rest is macerated for two hours before pressing off into used French oak. Aged for 11 months on full lees in used French oak where it fermented. Unfined/unfiltered, 12mg/l SO2 added just before bottling. 'Herrengasse 4' is the new name and label for the wine that was formerly bottled as Neuburger Strasser Weinberge. Martin and Anna wanted to set this cuvée apart, as Neuburger is special to them--a historical variety, but a bit of an underdog. Herrengasse 4 is Martin’s grandparents’ address; his grandfather planted the first Neuburger vines on the property: so Martin says 'the passion for Neuburger was born at Herrengasse 4.'

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